June 4, 2013

Levi Strauss & Co: The Beginnings of a Modern Day Heritage Brand

Levis Logo

This article was written by Vicki Power on behalf of House of Fraser. House of Fraser is a premium department store based in the UK and a stockist of Levi Strauss & Co clothing and accessories.

 

Fashion is an ever changing industry but once in a while there is an item, a trend, a style that just won’t go away – The blue jean is that item.

Levi Strauss invented the blue jean and his journey remains one of the most inspirational stories within the fashion industry. Not only was Levi an excellent business man who saw an opportunity and took it, he and his company have implemented policies that were far ahead of their time and remain one of the most highly respected business practices in the industry.

To this day the Levi brand is recognized around the world and continues to be sold globally on a massive scale.

Before the blue jean

In 1847, when Levi Strauss was 18, he moved with his mother and two sisters from Germany to the US to join his older brothers who were living in NYC and running a successful wholesale dry goods business.

 

Levi-Strauss

Levi Strauss

 

The Beginning of Levi Strauss & Co

From a young age Levi was a risk taker and at the age of 23 he moved to San Francisco. The Gold Rush had caused 300,000 people to relocate to San Francisco and Levi saw this as an opportunity to set up his own store. This was the beginning of Levi Strauss & Co.

Levi Strauss & Co began selling wholesale dry goods such as clothing, canvas, umbrellas and bedding to local stores in the area whose customers were the gold prospectors.

Entering into the Apparel Industry

In 1872 Levi was contacted by Mr Davis; a tailor from Reno who bought his fabric from Levi Strauss & Co. Mr Davis was looking for a partner to help him patent his revolutionary idea that would strengthen the pockets of work trousers using copper rivets.

Levi was a business man with little or no knowledge of the clothing industry, Mr. Davis was a tailor with little or no business knowledge. Levi took a risk partnering with Mr. Davis, and in 1873 they were awarded the patent for the copper rivets.

 

Levi's_506_Front_Pocket

The revolutionary pockets with rivets

Waist Overalls

Levi Strauss & Co began selling denim work pants, known as waist overalls, with reinforced rivets on the pockets to prevent them from ripping when laden with gold.

Mr. Davis relocated from Reno to San Francisco in 1880 as the demand for the waist overall was so high that hand-made production could no longer keep up and the first Levi Strauss & Co factory was opened.

Levi Strauss’ Will

Prior to his death in 1902, Levi sponsored 28 scholarships to the University of California-Berkeley, which are still in place today. He was a philanthropist, heavily involved in many charities and he set clear instructions in his will that Levi Strauss & Co continued this support after his death.

Levi Strauss & Co after Levi Strauss

The 1906 earthquake and fire in San Francisco damaged the factory and headquarters. All employees continued to be paid their full salary and after a number of months a temporary factory and showroom were set up and work restarted.

In 1926, employees at the Valencia Street factory were awarded bonuses, which at the time was unheard of in the apparel industry.

The depression struck in the 1930s and demand for workwear decreased. As a way of preventing lay-offs, staff were given alternative non-manufacturing jobs such as relaying the hardwood floor in the factory, while production levels were low. By doing this the company retained a highly skilled and happy workforce who were ready to restart manufacturing as soon as the demand for workwear increased.

Levis-Jean-Campaign

Modern day Levi Strauss & Co

Through the year’s one of the main things that stand out is the value and emphasis placed on employees at Levi Strauss & Co and the realization that a highly skilled and fully trained workforce was the most valuable asset a business has.

Some examples of the value placed on his staff are listed below:

  • The Red Tab Foundation was set up to help Levi Strauss & Co employees in retirement
  • Levi Strauss & Co Became the first corporation to provide HIV and AIDS tests and education for employees and their families
  • They developed one of the first known comprehensive standard of practice for manufacturing contractors which included wages, conditions of work, ethics and the working environment
  • Levi Strauss & Co became the first US corporation to offer employees and their families, including unmarried partners, medical benefits

Levi took a number of risks early in his career, but they were all smart, which resulted in his small wholesale dry goods business propelling into the apparel industry and becoming one of the most successful businesses of all time.

To learn more about the inspirational story of Levi and Levi Strauss & Co click here.

June 2, 2013

Blurred Lines

Blurred Lines Blurred Lines

Blurred Lines- Robin Thicke ft. Pharrell & T.I.

May 28, 2013

Bring Nature to You, Growing Jewelry by Hafsteinn Juliusson

The coolest jewelry we’ve seen in a long time. Take nature with you wherever you go. Perfect if you live in a big city and you don’t get to see that much greenery. We love the moss rings! Get them here.

Growing Jewelry By Hafsteinn Juliusson Growing Jewelry By Hafsteinn Juliusson Growing Jewelry By Hafsteinn JuliussonGrowing Jewelry By Hafsteinn Juliusson

Growing Jewelry By Hafsteinn Juliusson

May 17, 2013

Source4Style Makes Sourcing Eco Fabrics so Easy, You’ll Have Time to Design

Benita Singh Source4Style

Benita Singh

by Nevena Rousseva

“Search, sample, and source”

I’ve always been interested in how and where designers source their fabric. Finding that gem of a mill that produces a fabulous weight silk with just the right sheen, or one that makes a flowy cotton fabric with the perfect drape can make all the difference. Sourcing is such an important component of designing and designers spend a considerable amount of time doing it. Without the right fabric a designer’s vision won’t be fully executed and the dynamic of the collection may fall flat. When I was a design student at FIT, finding the right fabric in the right color was the most important thing for my designs. I’d spend more hours sourcing in the Garment District, than I did designing.

And I’m just talking about sourcing conventional fabrics, not environmentally friendly ones. Those are even harder to find. Years ago I didn’t know where to look. I’d spend hours searching the internet only to find a relatively empty marketplace. But in recent years things have changed. There are many companies making high quality eco textiles. Still, you had to do some digging to find these new suppliers. That is until Source4Style came on the scene. The online tradeshow that brings you sustainable fabrics from 32 countries in one place has become the shining star and beacon of light for easily sourcing eco textiles.

Friends Benita Singh and Summer Rayne Oakes co-founded Source4Style in late 2010. Several months of discussions culminated in Benita quitting her job with a marketing agency in 2011 to build up Source4Style. I caught up with Benita, who is soft spoken, but with intelligent eyes, at her New York City co-working office in the Garment District.

Source4Style is in a growth period. Last summer the site had about 40 fabric suppliers. It is now up to 140.  “We really wanted to rapidly increase the size of the market place in order to really create a comprehensive sourcing tool” explain Benita of the company’s focus on growth.  They’ve added new features on the site, like searching suppliers based on the minimum amount of fabric needed “So designers can find suppliers that not only meet their design criteria but also meet their business criteria as well” notes Benita.

The most critical thing about Source4Style is that it now does the heavy lifting for designers in terms of sourcing, which allows designers to spend more time designing and developing the other parts of their business. The company finds suppliers through tradeshows, LinkedIn groups, general market research, and international trade commissions. Part of Source4Styles’s social mission as Benita explains, is to “expand market access for suppliers that can’t afford to go to tradeshows”. It also works the other way. Source4Stye brings new fabrics to the designers who can’t afford to go to tradeshows and access new suppliers. That’s a win-win.

The company vets all potential suppliers using a comprehensive questionnaire that has been expanded to include social compliance. Before the categories were organic, recycled, fair trade, and preservation of craft and culture. Now the vetting includes social compliance to account for suppliers who support local enterprises and add value to a community, but their textiles and practices may not fall into one of the mentioned categories. Benita gives an example. A family owed mill in Prato, Italy that is making fine cashmere that may not be certified organic or recycled, but still produces an excellent material that’s non-toxic or synthetic, and has a great story from a small family owned business. Benita puts it this way, “We don’t want to be the definers of what sustainability means. Our goal is to provide the platform that allows designers to make their own decision about what sustainability means to them and how they want to be supporting the industry and not be exclusive in the sense of – ‘no you did not meet this regulation so you can’t be on Source4Style’. That said we obviously have to have a high level of vetting in place to make sure we are living up to our mission of promoting socially responsible sourcing.”

The vetting process was expanded in order to really support small suppliers. However, Source4Style does not exclude major players from using their platform. For example Toray, a multi-billion dollar textile company out of Japan, who are pioneers in developing a vegan ultra suede, use Source4Style to reach customers.“Everyone is on Source4Style for a different reason, but they all come back to our core of providing much needed alternatives in the industry” says Benita

There are over 5,000 designers using Source4Style coming from 76 countries. Most of the designers are coming from the US, however a lot of traffic has been coming from Australia and New Zealand. One reason is because they are not located in the vicinity of the major textile trading shows that take place in New York, London, and Paris. Source4Style gives designers in more isolated areas increasing access to textiles without the hefty travel expenses. Many of the designers using the platform are small brands, however established companies like Calvin Klein and Tory Burch have also signed on to use Source4Style.

Benita and her team of 5 are currently working to bring new features to the site. For example they are talking to groups like Cradle to Cradle and GOTS about ways to educate suppliers in order to help them transition to more sustainable practices. They are also beefing up content on the site. One of the key pieces is the interactive trends reports. These reports are about linking market trends with the textiles found on the site. As Benita puts it “It’s not just here is a great material we found, but here is a great material and here is how it aligns with the trends that you are seeing.”

In the next year or so the company hopes to move to their own office where designers can come in and swatch directly.  “We are a technology company” says Benita “but we understand that the offline-online experience is so important.” Source4Style also wants to continue to grow, and have enough suppliers to rival an offline tradeshow that typically has anywhere from 700 to 1000 suppliers. By the end of this year they are looking to have 350 suppliers showcasing on Source4Style.

So if you are a designer looking for environmentally conscious fabrics, then Source4Style is the place for you. Even if you are not currently looking for fabrics, make sure you check out this innovative new platform that is disrupting traditional ways of doing business in the fashion industry.

You can sign up to use the site here. When you do, make sure you download the Spring Summer 2014 trend report.

For more on Benita and her team click here.

April 24, 2013

Toxic Threads: Polluting Paradise Latest Greenpeace Report on the Fashion Industry

Toxic Threads Polluting Paradise Greenpeace Report

Greenpeace has released its latest report on the toxic life of the fashion industry. This latest report exposes Gap, Brooks Brothers and Adidas for working with PT Gistex factory which dumps toxic wastewater in Indonesia waterways. The facility does polyester weaving and wet processing for these fashion brands. Greenpeace found chemicals in the water that according to the EPA are highly toxic to aquatic organisms.

Full Report

Gap Dumping Toxic Wastewater, Greenpeace Says

April 11, 2013

Everything Old is New Again

Fashion always recycles itself and old will always be reincarnated as new. Case in point stripes. They are in for spring once more. These images are from different time periods and show the lasting popularity of stripes. The point is if you buy one or two classic stipe pieces, you can wear then for always. Buy quality so it lasts.

Stripes2Stripes1 Stripes2 Red and White Stripes Stripes Tube Dress Stripes Black White  Stripes T-Shirt Stripes Black White2 Black White Stripe Skirt

Tags:
April 8, 2013

Exclusive BUNDSHOP Offer for Style and the Start-Up Readers

Bundshop Launch Offer

Bundshop, the only website that brings Chinese design to the world is offering Style and the Start-Up readers immediate access to shop products from over 50 emerging Chinese designers and get $10 off any order!

Just go to www.bundshop.com, click on  “Get Immediate Access” and type in the code Style Startup as the first and last name. Type in your email address…and enter the world of Chinese design.  The code guarantees you the $10 off your order.

For more on Bundshop click here.

Connect with Bundshop: twitter l facebook

April 7, 2013

H&M/Vogue Sustainable Fashion Panel

H&M/Vogue Sustainable Fashion Panel

H&M Addresses The Future Of Sustainable Fashion In A Live-Panel Discussion

April 5, 2013

Lenay Dunn Wears New Label Tabii Just

Lenay Dunn in Tabii Just

Lenay Dunn in Tabii Just

Lenay Dunn wears Maayan Top by new label Tabii Just to the Simon Killer premiere in New York City. The sapphire blue top looks paired with black skirt looks classy and sophisticated. To learn more about Tabii Just click here.

April 4, 2013

Priti by Design: Let Me Count The Ways You Can Wear This Clothing Line

Priti By Design.

by Nevena Rousseva

Imagine your closet having only a handful of pieces. Among them- a smart suit, a skirt, a sexy dress shirt, and an evening gown. Forget the clutter bomb that most of us call our closets. The idea of so little clothing can be scary though. But what if the suit coat changed into a cropped jacket, the pant converted into shorts, the skirt doubled up as a sleek cape, and the evening dress meta-morphed into a cocktail dress or a night on the town dress.

This is clothing that transforms and does double even triple duty. This is Priti by Design clothing.

I first met Priti Bali-Khan, the designer behind the label and a vivacious woman with a dark-haired bob and talkative spirit, a year ago after her first collection debuted during fashion week. Recently Priti invited me to join her at the historical ‘21’ Club in mid-Manhattan for a promotional photo-shoot for her Fall 2013 collection shot by photographer Bill Gregorio. The model was Amber Creighton from NBC’s News Butterfly. I got to talk to Priti about her collection, inspirations and sustainable initiatives.

.

21 Club Priti By Design Amber Creighton Evening Gown

An evening dress made for dinner at the famous ’21′ Club wine cellar

`

21 Club Priti By Design Amber Creighton Cocktail Dress

Transformed into cocktail attire

`

21 Club Priti By Design Amber Creighton Club Dress

And later drinks at the bar

`

Priti’s collection is vibrant, luxurious, and most importantly, it’s fun. Her inspiration is the classic silhouette and as Priti puts it “These are statement pieces, they are not trends, they are not fads, they are classic.” She is drawn to classic shaped because they look good on different body types and will be relevant for years to come. The image of the suit below, for example is inspired by Coco Chanel. It’s paired with a lace shirt equipped with a removable ruffle. “That’s Coco Chanel, masculinity and suddenly a touch of femininity that you are not expecting” Priti says. The capes and boatneck top are inspired by Alexander McQueen, and that gorgeous evening dress up above was inspired by Priti’s own Carolina Herrera wedding dress. She envisions Audrey Hepburn, the inspiration for her harem pants and peplum suit, wearing this outfit on one of her UNICEF missions.

.

Priti By Design Turquoise Suit

Coco Chanel turquoise inspired suit

.

Priti By Design Turquoise Suit

Bam! the turquoise suit transformed. The ruffle on the blouse comes off

.

Priti doesn’t want her clothing to be exclusive and out of reach for customers. “I want the middle class to access my clothes” she notes. Her clothing is priced between $150 and $350, a price point that is affordable and does not exploit those who make her clothing. And as Priti says “They all do double duty, every single piece does double duty. It’s 2 in 1 at least”.  And if you think of it that way, the clothes cost even less. Another interesting thing is her pricing strategy. “I priced out my collection separately with each piece being independent of every other piece but working together… so if the woman just wanted the reversible little black dress then that’s what she gets” says Priti. The concept makes a lot of sense. If you have a special event and you want to dress up that little black dress, you can for example get the fish tail and top and create a whole new dress.

.

Priti By Design Harem Pants Peplum Top

Audrey Hepburn inspired peplum top and harem pants

.

Priti By Design Harem Pants Transformed

Peplum top transformed into a sexy crop top and harem pants transformed into shorts

.

The designer is also conscious of the environmental impact the fashion industry creates. That’s why she is focused on  minimizing her impact. For the Fall 2013 collection she is using only silk, wool, and French lace. “There is no way to make nylon, polyester, or anything of the other crazy textiles, without hurting the environment” Priti notes. The clothing is dyed and produced in New York’s Garment Center. She worked with one of the last natural dyers left in New York City to crate the vibrant hues. Natural dyes still have chemicals involved, but the big difference is that those chemicals are not harmful to water systems. Synthetic dyes bring prices down, but heavily pollute the water that is discharged.  “I had to make a decision” Priti explains “Do I bring the price down or do I do it naturally?” She opted for natural. Priti is also focused on quality- “I don’t want my [clothes] 5-6 years down the line…coming apart, I want every one of my pieces to be in a woman’s wardrobe a minimum of 5 years.”

.

Priti By Design Skirt As Cape

First a skirt

.

Priti By Design Skirt As Cape

Then a cape

.

21 Club Priti By Design Amber Creighton Cape

Amber outside the ’21′ Club wearing the cape

.

One of the perks of Priti’s modular clothing is how easy it would be to travel with them. Literally you take a few pieces and you can be set for an entire week. And with the hassle of traveling today, that’s a big deal.

.

Priti By Design Dress And Cape

The black mini dress reversed and worn with the fishtail as cape. Let me count the ways to wearing these pieces…

.

Priti envisions Audrey Hepburn wearing her clothes, but as for real life celebrities, she would like to see Charlize Theron, Rosario Dawson and Mindy Kaling wearing her pieces because “these are all women with substance.” She wants her women to be “rich, fabulous, good at what they do, but always with a heart that says what can I do and give back to my community.” She herself is giving back, donating 10% of gross sales to Sakhi and Global Kids. She is looking to build more than just a fashion business, she is looking to create a social enterprise that can give back.

Are Priti by Design’s clothes the way of the future? Clothing that looks great and gives you options without cluttering your closet- I definitely think so!

To find out more about Priti, her clothing, and where to buy click here.

April 3, 2013

A Fashionable Way to Help, Attend the 2013 Heart A Cause Annual Party

Heart A Cause Invite

Have fun while helping out. Click here to purchase tickets and help raise awareness for Autism Spectrum Disorders.

April 1, 2013

The Three Ingredients For Intrinsic Motivation

`

Play, Passion, Purpose

-from NYT Op-Ed Need a Job? Invent It

Tags:
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 323 other followers

%d bloggers like this: